After 10 years...

It took me more than 3 hours before I was able to come up with the name of my blog. It took me a lot of time searching for famous surf lines and slogans. I wanted a title that could give the reader an idea of what my blog is about. Yes, obviously surfing is a big part of this, it's the main reason why I made a blog at the first place. My first blog was back in 2002, it was also about surfing. I got hooked with surfing after watching my favorite film: Blue Crush. But of course it was nothing since I was just a kid, I would just search pictures of girls from Roxy and Billabong and post it on my blog. Now that I surf for real! I told myself that I will take this blog seriously and I will start blogging all my surfing trip. Nevertheless, I also want to include my other travels and as well as my thoughts about life and my relationship with God.

Surfing allows me to be one with nature, it enables me to appreciate life and its beauty. After surpassing all those heavy waves, I paddle out, lie or sit on my board and wait until I catch the next wave. The next seconds or minutes I spend on that board waiting for the next swell is the second best feeling next to riding a wave. It is in those moments that I realize how precious and amazing life and the world is. It's just me and the ocean. The sound of the waves behind me crashing gives me a different of high and relief. Well, high because the sound of nature generally relaxes us. Relief. Relief from...I actually don't know? That I'm far from the waves? Or that I got out and I'm alive. Or maybe just the fact that waves are still coming it means that there is still a chance for me to have a long ride. Well, I have yet to find out. As I look out into the abyssal zone, I see a vast blue sea full of endless possibilities. I was frightened at first, wild thoughts kept running through my head, "What could be swimming under or around me right now? How deep is this? What if a tsunami suddenly appears?" and simply the thought that someone or something might pull my leg down give me mini heart attacks. But as what surfers would say, you have to be brave and determined to catch a wave because as soon as you get one, it's all gonna be worth it. 

They say that surfing is just like life. "It heaves up unexpected waves, tosses us about, and drags us under at times. Equally, life also gives us the sweetest moments akin to catching the right wave, serving as a reward for our efforts, calculated risks and for following our awe." (Tomson, 2011.) I never knew surfing could make me appreciate life more. After all, as a 12 year-old kid I just wanted to surf because it was a unique sport. Plus, a girl that surfs? A major plus! I look life now with depth and meaning. I noticed the effect it gave me that is why I made a commitment to surf at least once a month, even though that means taking a day off my payslip. I don't care, a bad day surfing is always better than a good day working. 

The world that we live in is marvelous, which I believe is an understatement. I don't want to waste my entire life working my ass of in the office. How can we appreciate life and God's gifts if we are not able to enjoy and see it. I want to see the world. I want to travel. Meet new people. Get to know new things. Surf and be good at it. Surf every point around the world. Immerse in a different culture. Live in the moment. Just like the vast blue ocean, the world is full of endless possibilities and I just have to paddle out catching that next wave. And if I miss one, I know that there will always be another wave. Just like surfing, there are no shortcuts, I will paddle around the impact zone: I will work hard, save and travel the world!

Here I am again, after one decade. Back in the scene, blogging about surfing and life, in general, hopefully with depth and meaning. Haha! No April fooling right here. From now on, I will blog religiously. Welcome to my blog and enjoy! CARPE DIEM! SURF'S UP! _m/