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| I know it in my heart this is going to be an awesome ride not until I saw him underneath my board |
I stumbled upon this article back when I was looking for tips to improve my stance, posture and stability in surfing. When I scanned through this article, I decided to skip it believing it was irrelevant because it talked about morals & etiquette, which at that time I thought I did not need. Having been to many surf trips this year, especially in those beaches with a crowded line up, I tried reading it again and I realized that this is, by far, the most essential surf article that every beginner should read. Every beginner like me should know the surfing etiquette even before he or she starts to surf. No, it does not enumerate the steps in finding that perfect swell or surfing it, but instead it discusses the real essence of surfing.
It's basically about understanding the sport. The lessons that it will teach you, the situations you will be facing, the kind of attitude that you should have. It's not about the gadgets, wetsuit/rashguard or you have, it's not about getting a good wave all the time, and etc., but on how you act and treat the surfers around you.
In summary, the point of this article is that being a good surfer does not mean you have to be a pro to be considered as one. Not all pro-surfers are good surfers and not all good surfers are pro-surfers. Being a good surfer is about being humble, showing respect, always pulling in, knowing where he/she fits in the line up and always paddling back out.
Here are some of the lines that strucked me the most:
"Buy surfboards. Know what’s involved in making a board, even if you don’t make the board yourself. Know that it’s a product of craftsmanship, a skill that requires precision to a sixteenth of an inch, a skill that is honed over time. Appreciate this. Also appreciate that you likely don’t have these skills, and find the best person who does that you can have a relationship with."
"Pay full price for you board. Because it’s worth it, and because shapers are surfers who don’t get paid enough for what they do. Bring a six-pack when you pick up the board, discuss its making."
"There are women in the lineup. Let them be surfers. They do not want to be hit on when they’re going surfing, and they do not find this attractive. They want to go surfing, same as you. Respect this. That said, if you want to sneak a peek, go for it."
"On travel: Put in work. Find a spot. Score it. Be quiet. No Tweets, no Facebook, no pictures, no blogs, no braggadocio. Surfing can teach you how to experience joy and excitement, and how to keep that joy and excitement to yourself. Allow it to do so."
"Sometimes you mess up. Sometimes you fall. Sometimes you fail. Don’t punch the water. Don’t scream. Get back on your board, paddle back out. Always paddle back out."
